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C3 Corvette Forum › Tech/Performance/Info › Detailed Vette Projects (NEW 2006) › TRWspring, Bilstein shock, Dragvette strut install

(Moderator: 68-73) ‹ Previous Topic | Next Topic › Pages: 1 2 3 4  Send Topic Print TRWspring, Bilstein shock, Dragvette strut install (Read 27417 times) Reply #30 - Feb 14th, 2006 at 11:19am gotahavit1974   Ex Member   Hey Jack (or anyone), On the lower shock mounts (the L shaped ones: 1. Is there a difference between left and right?                   2. What keeps them from turning downward after they have been on the car for a while? Are they splined or do they have some sort of key way?                Thanks for any help guys!   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #31 - Feb 14th, 2006 at 11:49am yellowjacket   Offline Global Moderator Tacoma, WA Gender: Posts: 19595   Quote: Hey Jack (or anyone), On the lower shock mounts (the L shaped ones: 1. Is there a difference between left and right?                   2. What keeps them from turning downward after they have been on the car for a while? Are they splined or do they have some sort of key way?                Thanks for any help guys! I couldn't see any difference between the two Scott. because it is also holding the strut rods, it can't turn downward. On the strut side, there is a cotter pin throught the bolt. :hopethishelps:   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #32 - Feb 14th, 2006 at 12:11pm 68-73   Offline YaBB Administrator NCRS Member 68,73,77 Corvettes Newark,Delaware Gender: Posts: 8735   They are splined & pressed in tight & usually you will need a special tool to get them out. I know van steel has the tool..it's to keep from damaging the threads. Alan   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #33 - Feb 14th, 2006 at 2:13pm yellowjacket   Offline Global Moderator Tacoma, WA Gender: Posts: 19595   Quote: They are splined & pressed in tight & usually you will need a special tool to get them out. I know van steel has the tool..it's to keep from damaging the threads. Alan I was lucky getting mine out then. I was worried about damaging the threads as it IS a tight fit.   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #34 - Feb 14th, 2006 at 2:20pm yellowjacket   Offline Global Moderator Tacoma, WA Gender: Posts: 19595   Quote: Jack, Now to the possible bad news...you will find that the 10" bolts hang below your wheels. If you have a tire go down the car will high center on the too long bolt and could cause all kinds of problems. Jeff :burnout: Okay, I went down to my favorite tire shop where I bought my tires and had work done there in the past and the owner told me that it is the opposite of what you guys are thinking. He says: That the bolt is NOT going to go down. It will go UP at the top instead because of relaxing the spring. So it will go up at the YELLOW arrows and stay the same at the RED arrows. If that is the case, this is good news as a 10" bolt will give me back the 2" I need. BUT, looking at the pix above, I can't see how that can be? ??? UPDATE I went to two large Fasteners & Bolt warehouses today and they did NOT have any. Special order and only by bulk. It seems I can't find any around here. I'm thinking of selling these tires, (they're brand new) and getting the 60 series size which would give me the 2" I need. « Last Edit: Feb 14th, 2006 at 5:11pm by yellowjacket »   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #35 - Feb 14th, 2006 at 6:57pm 406shark   Ex Member   Quote: Okay, I went down to my favorite tire shop where I bought my tires and had work done there in the past and the owner told me that it is the opposite of what you guys are thinking. He says: That the bolt is NOT going to go down. It will go UP at the top instead because of relaxing the spring. So it will go up at the YELLOW arrows and stay the same at the RED arrows. [img] If that is the case, this is good news as a 10" bolt will give me back the 2" I need. BUT, looking at the pix above, I can't see how that can be? ??? UPDATE I went to two large Fasteners & Bolt warehouses today and they did NOT have any. Special order and only by bulk. It seems I can't find any around here. I'm thinking of selling these tires, (they're brand new) and getting the 60 series size which would give me the 2" I need. Jack, The owner of the tire shop is wrong. Your best bet is to go with the C4 10" bolts. Then install the nuts and tighten them to the ride height you desire. Then cut off the remaining bolt. Then you will be left with the trade-off of looks to safety, or buy tires with either a larger sidewall or a larger diameter wheel & tire package. Good luck, Jeff  :burnout:   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #36 - Feb 14th, 2006 at 9:21pm yellowjacket   Offline Global Moderator Tacoma, WA Gender: Posts: 19595   Quote: Jack, The owner of the tire shop is wrong. Your best bet is to go with the C4 10" bolts. Then install the nuts and tighten them to the ride height you desire. Then cut off the remaining bolt. Then you will be left with the trade-off of looks to safety, or buy tires with either a larger sidewall or a larger diameter wheel & tire package. Good luck, Jeff  :burnout: I was afraid of that. Safety has to come first. Besides having a bolt hanging down that low wouldn't look good from behind anyway. It looks like I will have to go with a 60/275/15 Anybody want to buy this tire? I only drove one month on it last summer, about 100 miles. 275/50/15 BFGoodrich g-Force T/A Drag Radials http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/bfgapp/catalog/tires/gforcetadragradial2.jsp http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/assets/pdf/comp_ta_drag_radial.pdf Make me a decent offer as I have to buy the next size up of same tire.   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #37 - Feb 15th, 2006 at 4:04am 68-73   Offline YaBB Administrator NCRS Member 68,73,77 Corvettes Newark,Delaware Gender: Posts: 8735   Jack I've got 2   10"X5/8" Bolts, but no nuts. Guess I could go down to lilly fastners & get nuts if you want them. I believe the origionals are 1/2" bolts , but I went to 5/8" for strenght...they went through the holes , but I purchased larger washers. 406 is correct in saying the tire guy is wrong. The top of the bolt is  connecteted to the trailing arm & goes down from there...a 9 or 10" bolt would give you a radius of 9 or 10",thus a 17 or 18" wheel is the only way to be safe. Give your spring a few weeks to settle in...you might just loose a 1" or so. I've got 3 3/8" clearance & flared fenders( add an inch without the flares) with 275/15/60 tires. You'll need clearance at the drags because your back is going to squat & you don't want a tire rubbing problem. I also like the raked look Alan   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #38 - Feb 15th, 2006 at 4:47am yellowjacket   Offline Global Moderator Tacoma, WA Gender: Posts: 19595   Quote: Jack I've got 2   10"X5/8" Bolts, but no nuts. Guess I could go down to lilly fastners & get nuts if you want them. I believe the origionals are 1/2" bolts , but I went to 5/8" for strenght...they went through the holes , but I purchased larger washers. 406 is correct in saying the tire guy is wrong. The top of the bolt is  connecteted to the trailing arm & goes down from there...a 9 or 10" bolt would give you a radius of 9 or 10",thus a 17 or 18" wheel is the only way to be safe. Give your spring a few weeks to settle in...you might just loose a 1" or so. I've got 3 3/8" clearance & flared fenders( add an inch without the flares) with 275/15/60 tires. You'll need clearance at the drags because your back is going to squat & you don't want a tire rubbing problem. I also like the raked look Alan I like the raked look too and would still have it with the taller tire. If I have to I can raise the rear a tad for racing. Anyway, please send the bolts. I'm may try this, cut them to 9" and see if that helps first...   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #39 - Feb 15th, 2006 at 5:10am 68-73   Offline YaBB Administrator NCRS Member 68,73,77 Corvettes Newark,Delaware Gender: Posts: 8735   You're up early...do you need the nuts too? I'll cut them if you want ...I've got an electric bandsaw that cuts like butter. Let me know Alan   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #40 - Feb 15th, 2006 at 7:40am dmyntti   Ex Member   Which spring did you put on your car.  I put a 340# TRW spring on mine with the adjustable bolts that came with it and it does not sit anywhere near as high as yours.  I have my nuts set to just above the cotter pin on the bolt and it sits just a bit above stock if any.  It took about a week for my car to settle out but was only about 1/2" to 3/4" higher when I first installed it.  I think the settling was the bushings compressing over time.   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #41 - Feb 15th, 2006 at 12:16pm yellowjacket   Offline Global Moderator Tacoma, WA Gender: Posts: 19595   Quote: You're up early...do you need the nuts too? I'll cut them if you want ...I've got an electric bandsaw that cuts like butter. Let me know Alan Sure Alan, cut them to 9" and the nuts too. Tell me how much and I'll send you the money. Your a life saver. I'll see how this looks unless someone makes me a good offer on my rear tires. dmyntti ; Yes, I have the 340# I recalled reading on another forum a year or so ago about another guy who had my problem and it was the way he installed it... ie, how he tightened and torqued the setup BEFORE he let the car down I think. It was a long post like this one.   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #42 - Feb 15th, 2006 at 12:29pm 68-73   Offline YaBB Administrator NCRS Member 68,73,77 Corvettes Newark,Delaware Gender: Posts: 8735   Ok I'll go look for nuts Alan :cheers:   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #43 - Feb 16th, 2006 at 12:52pm yellowjacket   Offline Global Moderator Tacoma, WA Gender: Posts: 19595   Quote: Ok I'll go look for nuts Alan :cheers: You get 'em yet?   Back to top  IP Logged   Reply #44 - Feb 16th, 2006 at 2:05pm 68-73   Offline YaBB Administrator NCRS Member 68,73,77 Corvettes Newark,Delaware Gender: Posts: 8735   Just picked up the nuts & 4 washers. I'll cut the bolts tomorrow & ship everything. Send me $25.00 ...that should cover everything. Alan :cheers:   Back to top  IP Logged   Pages: 1 2 3 4  Send Topic Print ‹ Previous Topic | Next Topic ›

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