Sorry it has taken so long to write this, but finally, here are the pictures
I took while replacing the bushings in the trailing arms, and installing the
front monospring suspension system.
But first, I have to make a couple of comments. Vette Brakes and Products
who I purchase all of the parts from really rock, both in the buying phase
and also in the after sales customer support.  After completing the work, I
can tell you that it is really worthwhile, but is not for the faint of heart.
As you can see below, I had some excellent help from my daughter Katie.



Below you can see where the bolt is for the trailing arms, bear in mind this
bolt is about 3 inches long and the hole you have to work with is only wide
enough for two fingers.



To pull the trailing arm rear wards enough to work on the bushings, you have
to remove the brake lines, or in my case, I just cut them as I was replacing
them with steel braided hoses. This picture is of the trailing arm pulled
back with the bushing removed.



As you can see below, the old bushings were virtually non existant.



I recommend that you purchase and install new stainless steel shims when
doing this as most likely the original shims will be rusted together.
Unfortunately I only took a few pictures of this phase of the work.
When you remove the bushing through bolt, I recommend you remove the old
shims first as they can cause the bolt to bind. On the passenger side of the
car, access to the bolt is even worse as the fuel lines run right below the
head of the bolt.  I had to cut out the head of the bolt with a cutting
torch.  When reinstalling the bolts, there is a 3/8 inch diameter hole in
the frame on the inboard of the bolt, and a steel rod can be used to push
the bolt through the new bushings.

Anyway, now onto the real subject of this posting, and that is the front
monospring installation. Below is the complete kit as received from VB and P.



First, I jacked up the car enough so that there was enough room to lower
the lower control arm to unload the spring. I placed axle stands under
the frame just behind the front wheel arch. It should be noted that I
took off the t-tops and left the doors slightly open while doing this.
Next I removed the wheels, the bolts and bushings connecting the sway
bar to the lower control arms. I also removed the shock absorbers.
So that the brake caliper would be supported at all times during this
project, I decided to do the upper control arm, then the lower control
arm.
With the upper arm being pulled down by the lower control arm, I removed
the cotter pin from the castellated nut, and undid the nut about three turns.
I then hit the casting where the upper ball joint passes through it with a
hammer and the ball joint taper released.  Next, I placed a floor jack under
the lower arm and raised it a few inches. I then removed the ball joint
nut and lifted up the upper control arm



The two nuts holding the upper cross shaft and shims can now be removed.
Keep the shims so they can be reinstalled. As you can see, there is not
a lot of room to work with.  



The through bolts are of the anti rotate type, and since I was replacing
them, I span them with an impact wrench to release them and removed them.
Next, I replaced the bolts with grade 8 hardware, and installed the new upper
control arm, and the original shims.





Next I bolted the ball joint to the spindle assembly.



I then removed the floor jack from under the lower control arm. I removed
the cotter pin and loosened the lower ball joint again about three turns.
Using a puller, I applied a load to the end of the ball joint and hit the
side of the casting with a hammer and shocked the lower ball joint loose.
I placed a jack under the lower arm close to the balljoint and removed
the ball joint nut.
Carefully, I then lowered the jack to unload the coil spring.



As can be seen, I used a bungee cord to support the spindle assembly, but
It really wasnt necessary as the upper control arm was supporting it.

I then removed the two 7/16 bolts holding the front of the lower cross
shaft to the frame, and the nemoved the 9/16 bolt holding the rear of
the cross shaft.
I discarded the bolts as replacements are in the VB and P kit.

Reversing the above procedure, I installed the lower control arm.



At this time, I did it all again on the other side of the car.

Next, I installed the monospring and set the ride height and stiffness
per the instructions from VB and P.





Below you can see how I have set it up for a lower front end ride
height.





Below are the discarded coil springs and control arm cores.



The car now rides and drives beautifully, I cannot say enough
good things  about Vette Brakes and Products.

Cheers all


Richard

Richard,

I'm waiting for when we have 2-3 days of decent weather so I can open the garage door while doing this job.

I will be using VBP instructions as well as yours above and advice from Binnie & Jon who also did theirs. I'll be asking questions as they come up.

Here is the first two.

I know how much trouble it was to capture the step by step pictures.  We all thank you for your time and effort it took to bring us this story.

Richard, what height did you set the front end at?  I have mine at 27" from floor to fender lip.  That is almost 2" lower than the back.   I am considering the adjustable monospring kit for the back.

Binnie,
   I am running an inch higher than you at the front.  I was getting a little interference with it at 27".

Cheers

Richard

i'VE never done it,but shouldnt you rent a clamp or strap type spring compressor to keep the spring from expanding & getting away from you? If it did,it would take the path of least resistance and could possibly set you back some money & time while you heal up.

Quote:


Well, I have had the springs out of my car a couple of times.  The first time I had the car on jack stands and used a trolley hydraulic floor jack under the control arm and lower ball joint.  I backed the castle nut off the ball joint about a quarter inch and used a five pound hammer on the side of the spindle to free the joint.  It will only take a few good robust cracks   I then took the weight of the control arm on the jack and removed the nut.  Now, you can just lower the jack very slowly and the control arm will drop down.  Just stay away from the spring side.  It is no big deal.  The second time, I took them out for good as I put in the mono kit.  This time I decided to do it differently as the car was up on my ramps.  I could not get at the ball joint sides easily so I decided to do it just the opposite.  I unbolted the control arms from the frame and then dropped them down that way.  There was lots of room to get the springs out and doing it that way, if the springs get away, there is no place for them go so really it is safer as far as that goes.  If you wanted to do it that way, the car has to be higher in the air for the control arms to pivot down on the ball joints.  If I was going to do it again and also replace the control arms, I would do it this way.  It will take you longer to dismantle than to put the new system in.  Putting it together is a piece of cake.  It it not a time consuming job.

Quote:

Richard, how high did you have it at the jacks? I can only go 16.5" with my jacks and the VBP instruction say it has to be 18".