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Does anybody have a working parking brake? How? (Read 14928 times)
Reply #30 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 12:41am

Gary Cook   Offline
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It's been a while.  Finally got the modified rotors back after a long delay.  They weren't the fastest at getting the work done.  Note to self:  Never tell anybody to take their time because you aren't in a rush.  On the upside he didn't charge much for the work.  The parts look good.  The rough surface is about like 200 grit sand paper. 

Cry  It didn't work, at least for forward braking.  In reverse it will lock the wheels.  If you apply the brake and try to backup it will not move.  Reverse hold is incredible.  So that improved.  Front is non-existent!  It won't hold the car in neutral on a 5 - 10 degree slope.  That's bad and it's not right. 

Huh  I am out of ideas.  Why is reverse hold perfect and forward zero?  It's almost like the front shoe (or rear) isn't being equally leveraged against the drum.  The mechanics of how that is done is simple enough and the parts are new so I just don't get it.

Every part from the brake handle to the rotors has been replaced at least once except the backing plate which looks ok and allows the shoes to move freely.  I've replaced it all and tried it all.  New handle.  5 sets of shoes.  3 different sets of rotors.  I've tried to shape the shoe to the rotor.  I've tried bonded and riveted shoes.  I've tried generic shoes and brand shoes.  New brake cables twice.  Springs and the rest of the hardware 2 times Lips Sealed.  Actuators.  I've tried loose adjust.  I've tried over adjusting to the point they are dragging.  There's no forward and backward ways of installing the shoes.  I've installed hundreds of drum brakes shoes back in the days.  I know old drum brake cars have a "short shoe to the front rule" but all the brake shoes have been the same here.

I don't know if this ever worked, before or after I started the restoration.  I bought the car and immediately tore it apart.  Things like parking brakes didn't really matter since the brakes and suspension were a mess.  I sure wish I had resolved this in California before shipping it to this place.  I'm at the point of ordering two complete trailing arm assemblies with the brakes and rotors already installed and adjusted.  I sort of hesitate at spending another 2000.00.  That's my last option.  I know more about this car than anybody on the island.  Not exactly an easy transition from a Renault Express to a Corvette as a mechanic.

So does anybody have the answer that will make me slap myself on the head and go damn I wish I'd thought of that before I spent a $2000+ trying to fix it!  Smiley
« Last Edit: Apr 16th, 2013 at 4:44am by Gary Cook »  
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Reply #31 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 4:43am

Binnie   Offline
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Gary, I think if you discover a fix for the parking brake problem you need to patent it.  As I already mentioned before, even when I drove my new '77 off the dealer lot, the parking brake would not hold in a forward gear.  I think any engineer looking at the design today would argue that it is seriously flawed due to shoe diameter, surface area and insufficient leverage dynamics. I really do not think there is anything you can do to the original setup that will result in an effective solution.
 

1977 ZZ4, 650 Speed Demon, 1.6 Rollers, Patriot Headers, TKO-500, Wilwood Brake Calipers & Master, Hydroboost, Hydraulic Clutch, Steeroids, Composite Monosprings, Bilstein Sports, DeWitts Rad

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Reply #32 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 4:48am

Gary Cook   Offline
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Binnie,

Is yours so bad that one person could push the car forward on a flat driveway with it applied?  Mine is. 

I wish I could find a bolt on parking disc brake setup.  I could have had one custom made before moving.  Now it's too late.
 
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Reply #33 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 5:04am

Binnie   Offline
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I have a steep driveway.  The hand brake will hold it in neutral from going backwards but it will not hold it in neutral going forward.  I agree the only solution is to have one fabricated using a brake of some type on the end of the transmission or on the disks themselves.  I think the reason that no-one ever developed an after market solution is because there would be so little demand for them.  In most jurisdictions these cars because of their age fall into the category where it is not necessary to have them inspected.
 

1977 ZZ4, 650 Speed Demon, 1.6 Rollers, Patriot Headers, TKO-500, Wilwood Brake Calipers & Master, Hydroboost, Hydraulic Clutch, Steeroids, Composite Monosprings, Bilstein Sports, DeWitts Rad

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Reply #34 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 5:56am

Gary Cook   Offline
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The reverse holding is what baffles me.  It works perfectly.  Others have said the same. 

I'm going over some posts on other forums.  I found a reference to a worn pivot point.  I'll check that out this weekend.  Some refer to arcing the shoes.  I've done that.  The new coating I had applied to the inside surface does that automatically too! 


P.S.  I spent a few more minutes reading the article.  The worn pivot point I found on another forum (corvette action center) sounds like it could be exactly the problem.  Not enough leverage to move the shoes.  It matches what I see with my cable.  With new rotors and new brake shoes, it is still at the maximum when adjusted.  I thought it might have been the new cable so I replaced it a second time.  There's a simple test fix associated with it.
« Last Edit: Apr 16th, 2013 at 6:28am by Gary Cook »  
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Reply #35 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 12:07pm

Artsvettes   Offline
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  I think you have a better chance of drilling a hole through the floor, and drive a stake in the ground to stop the car from rolling. Than to get the original park brake to work. Shocked
I know this doesn't help but I had to say it........jack
 

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Reply #36 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 12:36pm

Binnie   Offline
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Artsvettes wrote on Apr 16th, 2013 at 12:07pm:
  I think you have a better chance of drilling a hole through the floor, and drive a stake in the ground to stop the car from rolling. Than to get the original park brake to work. Shocked
I know this doesn't help but I had to say it........jack


And Gary, that was coming from a guy that worked for GM  Smiley
 

1977 ZZ4, 650 Speed Demon, 1.6 Rollers, Patriot Headers, TKO-500, Wilwood Brake Calipers & Master, Hydroboost, Hydraulic Clutch, Steeroids, Composite Monosprings, Bilstein Sports, DeWitts Rad

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Reply #37 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 12:49pm

Gary Cook   Offline
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I hear you.  That's pretty much everybody's opinion including mine.  I'm giving it one more try this weekend.  My patience is gone and my body can't take too many more parking brake reassembly job!  What a pain in the behind. 

If I could just get the Spanish inspectors to accept a stake in the ground, I'd be all set.  But those rollers that test it have no slot for a stake.   Grin
 
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Reply #38 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 2:25pm

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My 99 blazer park brake was similar to the corvette except it was a one piece shoe that expanded in the rotor, and it worked very well.. In 99 we built a prototype right hand drive to export to Japan. The right side foot well was a lot smaller to accomodate a foot activated park brake. So we went with a hand activated park brake. Guess what? It wouldn't hold for squat. But that didn't stop the General from giving it the go ahead and bought off on it.
So history does repeat itself..............jack
 

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Reply #39 - Apr 16th, 2013 at 9:23pm

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Has anyone here ever tried a line lock,& is that even feasable? I dont know much about them
 

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Reply #40 - Apr 17th, 2013 at 1:10am

Gary Cook   Offline
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It is repeating again.  I rented an Opel Insignia here.  The new Buick is the same vehicle.  May dad bought one and it's an Opel with a Buick grill.  Anyway they have a switch on the console for the electrically operated parking brake.  Took me a while to figure that one out.  I guess the new Vette has it too.  I thought I'd give it a try as an emergency brake too so I flipped the switch driviing down the street with nobody around.  It's all or nothing!  I can't believe they are allowing this to be implemented. 
 
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Reply #41 - Apr 17th, 2013 at 4:43am

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The electric setup I have in the 68 does hold going forward, but if you forget to release it one time the break cable will have to be adjusted.    So it must be a very fine line as to the adjustment of the breaks. That solenoid pulls the break cable much tighter than the hand break, plus the cable is not kissing the drive shaft any more.
Line lock would work also although I've never seen it on rear breaks...I don't know why it wouldn't work. I wouldn't leave it on except to get through inspection
Alan Smiley
 
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Reply #42 - Apr 17th, 2013 at 7:34am
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I'm just glad that Texas is flat. My e-brake is only tight enough so that the cable doesn't drag on the ground when I drive  Shocked Cheesy Huh
 
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Reply #43 - Oct 25th, 2013 at 2:54pm

68-73   Offline
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I was talking to a guy yesterday that recent purchased 2 C-3 corvettes (1968 & 1975) that are in need of many repairs. Somehow the subject of parking breaks came up & he wants to look over my setup. He has over 50 motorcycles & has worked on parking break systems that are setup like our corvettes. He came up with a great fix that I think will work as long as you don't forget to release the break. On the parking break drum grind notches 1/16" to 1/8' about every 1" on the inside of the drum, these will allow the pads to grab much better. He swore it works & has been doing it for years.
Alan Smiley
 
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