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BRAKES! (Read 527 times)
Jul 26th, 2016 at 6:55am

69Shark   Offline
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Everett Wa

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Well, it is time again!

My brand new brakes are due to be changed!
This time however I think I will change the rotors out. I assume what I have are old and tired anyway and this gives me a chance to upgrade them!

I already have sleeved calipers.

I'm also looking at better brake pads on line and various reviews. It appears there are 3 general choices. Original or similar, spirited street driving, and then there are the race versions. I'm thinking step up the the middle of the line pad. Should last longer than race pads and I'm pretty sure I don't need race pads.

I'm also looking at replacing the proportioning valve. When I first got the car it was jammed up but a good stab on the pedal worked it free, Now it works fine most of the time but every now and then the car will dive right when brakes are applied.

Lastly, steal braided brake lines to replace the rubber.

Anyone disagree with the current plan? If so, please give me your thoughts as to why!
I am ready to start ordering parts! Smiley




Also, wheel bearings. Since I will be knee deep in a mess, is there any way to check, or even replace them with the trailing arms on the car? I've never addressed them. I have no reason to believe they are bad. Just figured if I could check while there, why not!

Thanks in advance for any ideas! Actual work will begin mid September.

Scott 



 
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Reply #1 - Jul 26th, 2016 at 3:24pm

68-73-77   Offline
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The trailing arm bearings need to be replaced if they make noise or if there is more than .0013 play. I would think any 69 that has not been replaced would be pretty close or bad. My 77 has one side that is close, but the other side is OK.  You need special tools to replace the bearing. Someone like VBP does a great job. If & when you do them send the rotors with the trailing arms so they can balance the whole thing as one assy. Having excess runout on the rotors of a C-3 is a big problem which causes air to be sucked back ito the break line then you get spongy pedal.
Alan Smiley
 

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Reply #2 - Aug 4th, 2016 at 3:11pm

olddiver   Offline
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Replaced my pads and rotors with stock items. The thing I hate the most is the residue left by the pads Undecided I did replace the hoses with s/s ones. Once I get it back on the road I'll let you know, but I'm sure your ride will be back on the road before mine Tongue Good luck on the work Smiley
....Mark
 
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Reply #3 - Aug 5th, 2016 at 6:43am

69Shark   Offline
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Thanks Mark,
Yeah, I am knee deep in work on the sailboat at the moment. I will order up parts and such most likely this weekend but my brake job will not likely occur until September

As far as brakes go, I am just stepping up the stopping power a bit.

Nice slotted and temperature treated rotors and 1 step up in pads will do me I'm sure.
Also looking at the proportioning valve as it had issues when I bought the car over a decade ago. Figure once I have to bleed her, might as well get what I can done! LOL!


Scott
 
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Reply #4 - Aug 5th, 2016 at 1:10pm

68-73-77   Offline
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Make sure to check your break lines. If they haven't been replaced you can find nice stainless steel sets for around $100.00 maybe a little more now.
Alan Smiley
 

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Reply #5 - Nov 21st, 2016 at 7:20am

69Shark   Offline
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Well,
I ordered the rotors and pads.
Or so I thought!!!!!   Doh!

After speaking with Tire Rack, it seams my online order did not go through.  Sad

With their help, I re-ordered over the phone and the parts should be here later this week however with turkey day I'll simply assume early next week for UPS shipping in the snowy hills, holiday, etc.  Shocked

I have my line lock already! Complete stainless parking brake kit, and braided brake lines are in shipping now!

I even ordered some copper collector gaskets because I blow the paper ones pretty regularly!! Figured while I'm there . . . . .


For curious minds . . . . . . my bride suggested I look at the browser I ordered the parts from.Just maybe I'll see what happened. Hmm, it seems the items are still in my cart! Doh! Guess I must have forgotten to press submit or something!  Grin


Scott











 
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Reply #6 - Nov 21st, 2016 at 7:25am

68-73-77   Offline
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Re-tighten you collector bolts like this
Install & tighten, start the engine heat it up let it cool down & re tighten. The for the next 3 or 4 times you take it out tighten then when the engine is cool. When you can finally not turn the bolts you got it & use new bolts too. Do this for header  bolts too or you will get leaks
Alan Smiley
 

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Reply #7 - Nov 21st, 2016 at 9:04am

69Shark   Offline
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Thanks Alan!
Maybe that was my issue all along! I just bolted them up and rolled!

I did get new bolts though!

Scott
 
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Reply #8 - Dec 1st, 2016 at 10:06am

69Shark   Offline
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Finally all my brake parts are here!!

This weekend I should have at least 1 full day to get my car lifted and the brake job underway!

I did pick up a power bleeder since I assume I'll be doing this job alone.
Kind of like an early Christmas for me with all the parts arriving!

FYI, 1 very expensive box arrived the day my bride and I flew to Las Vegas!
I was able to see it on my webcam above the garage door. I then called my neighbor and asked if he'd get it and put it in the house for me!I watched him arrive, spoke with him through my cell phone over the IP camera microphone/speaker and gave him a code to enter the house!Very nice indeed!


Scott
 
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Reply #9 - Dec 5th, 2016 at 7:42am

69Shark   Offline
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I was supposed to have all weekend to work on the brakes but alas, Saturday was lost to other activities!

I did however on Sunday, get the 69 jacked up, wheels off, and rear hubs/rotors drilled!

I could not get the rear hubs off so they are soaking in anti seize at the moment!
If they do not break lose easily I'll get a puller to get them off.

I got a late start Sunday because my daughter came over with car concerns so her SUBBY ended up in the garage for a while. It was raining and the floor ended up wet so I pushed the water out, turned on the heat and waited for it to dry!

SCott
 
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Reply #10 - Dec 19th, 2016 at 7:31am

69Shark   Offline
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Everett Wa

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WOW! What an ordeal! I spent a good portion of two days drilling on the rotors.
OMG! I started with the tiniest of drill bits and slowly worked my way up to 1/2 inch!
I wore out many bits. Broke a few which then in turn created more work, and generally had a terrible time.

Finally a week ago my 30 year old Makita drill literally burned up! OMG! Seriously???
It smoked, discolored and lost all torque. I'm now wondering if THAT wasn't part of the problem!! SO off to the store and got my brand new Dewalt drill and yes, more bits.

A week ago Sunday with my brand new drill . . . . . imagine drilling metal  . . . right before you break through . . . . the bit catches?? Well . . . . TWICE for me. Note that I had been drill metal and my arms had shavings on them. The first time it caught, the drill came right out of my hand, spin, slapped my forearm hard! YIKES!! That hurt! but alas, I'm a GUY, I can take it so right back to work. Second time the dewalt was making fantastic progress!! YES! SNAG! SLAP! I was holding it very well as I had just learned  . . . . The dang thing came around and just hammered the top of my right hand leaving it bruised and swollen!! I was done instantly. In the house doing everything I can to not burst into tears like a little kid, I noticed my arm itching! WTF? Well it would be that the first slap on my arm drove metal shavings into my forearm! Yep. Lots of digging with a needle, glasses, lights, and then magnifying glass and I believe it is all out. Maybe one piece left. Not sure.


The good part . . . . .
I have all 4 rotors off now. If you do this and need to drill, get a proper hub puller that can span 12" diameter. Oreilly's rented me theirs and it was worth its weight in PAIN! LOL!

I positioned the front rotors on the hub and they are pretty! I'm currently waiting for a friend to loan me his runnout tester. He knew exactly what it was when I asked.

I tried playing the guitar over the weekend and that was a bad idea. while my right hand unused does not hurt, when I wiggle fingers, especially the middle finger, it starts aching! So no hand gestures on the road for at least another week! Cheesy


OK, so now my car is almost completely disassembled brake wise! Just need to pull the lines I'm replacing and I feel like I'm on my way again! LOL!


FWIW so far minus the drilling the job is very straight forward.
The drilling has been miserable. I blame my lack of experience and my Makita.
The new Dewalt made easy work if it but I paid a price.

Scott










 
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Reply #11 - Dec 20th, 2016 at 5:24am

68-73-77   Offline
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It doesn't sound like you had a pleasant experience.  Next time you drill out a rivet try this... Take a punch & punch the center of the rivet..I use a sharpie to mark the center of the rivet sometimes. Then take a  drill bit about the same size as the rivet 5/16" in this case, when it starts to get close to edge of the hole the rivet is in go to a larger rivet say 3/8 & let the drill do the job pushing to hard will bind the bit. After a short time the top of the rivet will break away. If the rivet starts spinning you'll have to jam something on the underside say a anvil with sandpaper between the rivet & anvil. I must say reading your description brought a smile to my face..I guess we all learn by trial & error  Wink
Alan Smiley
 

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Reply #12 - Dec 20th, 2016 at 6:41am

69Shark   Offline
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ATTITUDE is the diff between
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Everett Wa

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Posts: 6858
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Ha, you only smiled because you could picture my pain! Fortunately, as a sailor I knew exactly what o say at that time!!


However I anticipate the rest of this effort to proceed nicely!


My only concerns now is removing brake lines and their connectors. I purchased a set of extra wide brake line wrenches from Sears. The very first one would not come off so they have all been soaking in PB Blast or basically liquid wrench. Any suggestions here would be appreciated.

I'm actually looking forward to fixing the parking brake but just typing this has my right hand fingers hurting. I suspect maybe next weekend I can run needle nose pliers and such! LOL!


Scott
 
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Reply #13 - Dec 20th, 2016 at 7:08am

68-73-77   Offline
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I wouldn't worry about be genial with them , just cut them off. You have the new ones that are pre formed?  I use a coat hanger as a templet to get a nice fit & cover the ends of the new lines so you don't get anything in there. Are you replacing the master cyl & or the proportional valve too.
Alan Smiley
 

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